The Espresso Machine Restoration site
A non-commercial site for those interested in espresso equipment repair and restoration.
Model: GS 1 Group, Manual, 220V, Single Phase. 2300 W (1000W + 1300W)
Approx Date of Manuf: Late 1970's early 1980's
Date acquired: 29th July 2005
Working condition: No
Notes: Purchased from Alaska
used market it's not funny. Not this time, a 1 group GS manual or solenoid is as good as it gets as far as I'm
concerned.
This is a non-runner machine but I knew that when I purchased it. As I've said a million times the fun is in the rebuild
and having a machine that is in bad shape is perfect for me. However upon closer inspection the brew boiler is in a
really bad way - cracked in 2 places from what looks like ice formation. Oh well.....metal is metal so it shouldn't
(touch wood) be impossible to weld it back to full strength.
So after 2 months of having the machine doing nothing, I decided to rip it apart and assess the damage. I was
seriously concerned with the brew boiler as it was clear that both end had cracks in it, more damage was to be
revealed as the stripdown progressed.
Having not used or had much chance to look at a 1 group GS before I have to say I was somewhat overwhelmed by
the added touches this machine has. These are really over the top small details. There are 2 that stand out for me.
1. Cup warmer. You will note that there are 3 black taps on the front of the machine. Two are obviously for steam
and hot water, the third is a tap that allows steam to fill the copper pipe on the cup tray. As if the heat from the
boilers wasn't enough. Very cool.
2. Cup tray drain. On the top of the machine if you happen to place a wet cup the water will run off, collect in a
small gutter and then will go via a small tube into the main drip tray. It's also because the steam cup warmer
condenses and creates a lot of water. Utterly mad (and dare I say unnecessary) but again it is a nice touch.
The main obvious damage is the fact that the brass heating element fitting that is brazed onto the end of the brew
boiler has come out. I can only guess that this has happened because the boiler was full of water when it arrived
and it had frozen at some point.
The other area of damage was the other end of the brew boiler. Likewise the drain fitting had also been forced out
from the inside.
It took just a few hours to get it all apart - that was the easy bit! The hardest part will be dismantling all the smaller
components like steam valves, inlet valves and the mother of all things - the manual group.
I will also have to investigate the damaged brew boiler and see if I can salvage it. Experience suggests that the
worst of the ice-damage will be the hole where the group fixes too.
I think my first priority will be to start in reverse so the main frame will need to be stripped / sand blasted then we will
see what condition the metal is in. The rust just seems like it is just surface rust but I know from my MGB that rust is
never just "on the surface" :)
Paul 20/10/05
I will say yes, but please ask first!
Email me here.